Lavinia has a couple concerts in Sicily this week and, as usual, I’m following her around, carrying her bags and stopping traffic for her to cross the street. Now, Italy is just like any other country; they have food, taxis and bottled water, but there’s a certain twist that the Sicilians add to every transaction to leave you feeling special. This “special” feeling can come in many different ways. Sometimes they make you feel like a king and sometimes they make you feel dirty. Always they make you feel like you’re starring in a gangster movie where even casual paperboys are working for the mafia.
Case and point:
1.) Bus doesn’t feel like crossing the busy street, so they drive a little further and drop us off by the beach. “Look, beautiful beaches, for you! Yes, very nice! You like!” So you shake hands, smiling and get off the bus. “Wow, they did this just for us!” Of course, now you have to lug your luggage an extra mile back and cross that busy street on foot, but still… you feel special.
2.) Bus is two hours late. Most of us would complain, but the bus driver explains that the drive is much more beautiful by moonlight. “Very rare, yes! For you!” Again, you feel special.
3.) At 2:00am a bum approaches and asks you if you need a taxi. Yes, of course I need a taxi. He says to wait while he crosses the busy street, smacking the hoods of honking cars and twice being hit by pirates on dirty mopeds. Then, after almost thinking he had forgotten us, or had been run-over, he pulls up on the curb in an enormous, black Mercedes, hops out, throws the bags in the back and drives us with English Grace to the hotel. He then unloads us in front of the door (double parked and holding up two lanes of traffic, of course) and asks for a small amount of money. I hand it over and ask for a receipt (typical accountant, I am). He smiles, searches his filthy pockets (really, he looks like a bum) and produces a blank taxi receipt. “Just put whatever you want, yes? Okay? For you!” Again, you feel special.
4.) You arrive at a restaurant, but there are no available tables, so you begin to walk away. “No, no! You’a stay!” And the waiter produces two shots of Limoncello (limon alcohol). “For you! You’a stay! You’a stay!” After a refreshing shot of limony sweetness, you stand around like a dope for 30 minutes until a table clears and you can sit. You still waited like a dope for 30 minutes, but again… you feel special.
They rip you off and jerk you around, just like northern Europeans, but they make you feel good about it, like you’re THAT special, that they’re going to focus their attention on you. They’ll lie and cheat and steal, but they’ll do it with a knowing wink. “Our little secret, eh buddy?”
In the end, I don’t mind being conned, as long as you do it the Sicilian way!